‘The Greens want to take our meat away’: Europeans go to war over their dinner

With meat consumption twice the global average, citizens of EU27 have to reconcile environmental concerns and culinary traditions

A row over meat consumption in Spain over the last month is just the most recent eruption of the debate all over Europe, as the continent grapples with making its famous cuisines more sustainable.

Food is inextricably intertwined with national identity for countries in continental Europe; a good steak, with perfect frites stacked beside it; a plate of wafer thin carpaccio, drizzled with dressing or plain old olive oil; wurst, served with good mustard; jamón ibérico laced with creamy white fat.